Day 46 NEGREIRA TO OLVEIROA

Wednesday 3rd of November (33ks - 5hrs 52 mins)
Left about 7:00am and arrived at 12:52pm. Slow enough going after about halfway as I was struck with a fairly painful bout of tendinitis in the right shin again. The walk started off with a couple of climbs but evened out, and for the first hour was quite pleasant, though a lot of fog which persisted throughout the walk. The last three hours or more were back roads, some asphalt and some not, and for a while, a fairly major back road. Because of the fog I probably was not able to appreciate the walk. It became a little tedious at times, and the shin made going uncomfortable. There is very little in this village besides this hostel (very good, though the room is not cheap.)I thought I would fore go the albergue once again as it was very basic and cold. I will make good use of these facilities to rest the leg and catch up on emails in the open area outside the rooms which is very warm and comfortable and has a good computer.


The pilgrim's cross at Zas, less than two kilometers into the morning's walk. It was a very dark beginning to the walk due to heavy fog, and the camino seemed to wind back on itself with no clear direction, however, I was soon out into open country.


About half an hour into the walk, the sky began to clear a little with the approaching morning sun.


Half an hour into the walk, I was confronted with a landscape that made me think of Van Gogh's "Cypresses", with a haunting purple glow all around me, and a number of the same trees accompanying my progress.


As I made my way along, there was an eeriness to this morning's slow and meager sunrise which made me wonder what sort of weather awaited me on this walk today.


Approaching Rapote, about 5ks into the morning walk.


Around 8:00am the camino began to follow a very well maintained pathway which made me wonder if the whole walk from this point was going to become almost touristy. However, that soon changed.


The village Church of A Pena which I reached at about 8:30am after around 8ks of walking. The fog had made the going a little slower, as with that and the lack of morning light, it had been harder to see arrows at the beginning.


8:32am - the pilgrim's cross around Piaxe/Portocamino. The signs didn't tally with the information sheet I had, which had Piaxe coming before A Pena. But the sign indicating A Pena certainly came before Piaxe along the camino.


The countryside takes on a distinct Australian feel with gum trees through the morning mist - reminds me of down around Glenfyn at home.


At 9:16am I enter the village of Vilaserio, with about two and a quarter hours under my belt, and about 12ks done. This being the case, I'm walking a bit slower than normal.


As I passed through the village, I thought of Javier with whom I'd shared lunch in Outeiro, the day before Santiago. He had told me how he and his family had gone back to the west of Galicia and refurbished an old house in which they were now living. It seems a number of people have done the same our among these villages.


A lovely vegie garden on the outskirts of the village before I take to the open road again.


9:31am, and just about at this point I experienced the most excruciating pain in my right shin, like a three inch nail being driven into it. Luckily it passed after a few moments, and I thought it might only be fleeting, but it was to return again throughout the rest of the journey this day, and tomorrow.


9:37am Cornado?


9:44am where?


10:04am where?


10:22am approaching a river (?)


10:26am, I reach Maronas with 19ks under my belt, and a very sore shin. I still have about 15ks to go, and the weather, though not wet, is a bit dismal at this stage.


10:37am, (?) - a lovely pilgrim's cross.


About 10:40am, the road I was on came out onto this main thoroughfare at (?), where up ahead I stopped very briefly to grab some water.


With 19ks behind me I reach the village of (?). I still have around 14ks more, and am feeling each kilometer this morning because of my shin.


On the outskirts of the village I pass another group of young pilgrims on their way to Santiago. I had met another group before i reached the village. Obviously there were arrangements for their gear, as none were carrying anything. The earlier group had said they were going to see the Pope in Santiago.


Beyond the village, again a couple of walkers pass me going the opposite direction - definitely not pilgrims, just local farmers.


11:38am, the countryside is beautiful, and I keep telling myself how much more beautiful it would be if the weather was kinder. At least there was no rain, just mist and a grey sky.


11:45am, with seven ks to go, Lago comes into view.


A stand off in the main street!


At about 12:10pm I began to expect some rough enough country up ahead as the landscape began to change.


But the land became gentler again.


What I think was Corzon, with about 3ks to go. A cemetery with the remains of an old church.


The last few kilometers were promising to be easy. The weather, though no rain, was a bit disappointing - this could have been a spectacular walk in parts on a sunny day.


Ponteolveira, a small settlement just over the river was ahead. I knew I had only about two kilometers to go, but i had completed over thirty, and my shin was very sore!


At about 12:50pm I reach the village of Olveiroa. I came upon another couple of pilgrims just entering the village too, but they were going on. I don't know where they had stayed the night before, but they certainly didn't look as though they had walked far this day. I was glad to get here - this seemed a long walk today, and took some focusing mentally at times because of the pain in my shin. Unfortunate really, as the walk was actually a pleasant one as far as scenery went.


The hostel where I stayed. Quite a beautifully restored old village house, with a bar and restaurant. One of the nicest places I stayed on the camino. When I arrived, I was actually suffering from quite acute tendinitis, so I lay low for the afternoon and rested. Although the shin was quite sore, I reasoned that it could only get better, and besides, I only had two days left.


About twenty minutes past six, an early evening walk to see what Olveiroa has to offer. Up ahead is a bar with the albergue beside it. I was glad I didn't stay at the albergue. Not much more on offer in this little town!


Stefan, Monique and a nice fellow from Japan whose name I couldn't quite get. I spent a while with them, but Stefan and Monique were too over the top for me, so I bought them a bottle of red and left them to it. Besides, my hostel was much warmer and with a restaurant. So I returned there to enjoy a tapa and wine, and have an early night.

DAY 47 OLVEIROA TO CORCUBION

Thursday 4th of November 21ks (3 hours and 50 minutes)
Left at 7:30am and arrived at 11:20am, but I lost at least 20 minutes in Cee looking for arrows! I shsould have just followed the road around by the small bay to here and side stepped Cee - a go ahead small town with lots of newly developed buildings at the heart of its centre. This morning's walk was quite nice - mainly backtracks and a few asphalt spots around Hospital. Not overly challenging, and after the Ermita de Nuestra Senora dal Neves, open country. I met no one on the walk except for a young couple before descending into Cee, who were heading for Santiago. There were a few pilgrims in Olveiroa last night. I saw Paula, the French girl, again, and had a couple of beers with Stefan from Germany - too enthusiastic for me! A nice fellow from Japan, and Monique from Holland - painful!. I was glad I was not staying in the Albergue! I bought them a bottle of red and then returned to the hostal for a bottle of wine and a tapa. By far the best accommodation on the camino, though this spot today is very good with a lovely view of the small bay.Corcubion is a delightful little spot.


At 7:40am, the day threatens to be a cold one, and the track looks rough.


About 7:50am the camino crosses a reasonable stream. The fog is thick enough so close to the river. And it's cold.


About 8:00am I arrive at Logoso. There is little evidence of population on this rather cool and foggy morning.


At 8:15am I arrive at Hospital, five kilometers seems to have passed quickly and easily, so I am gaining confidence in my shin this morning.


One kilometer on from Hospital, I come upon the junction which offers a choice to the pilgrim at this point.


Having turned left to head to Cee, I continue on what threatens to be a faily uninspiring walk.


A bit after 8:30am, the camino leaves the main road and takes the pilgrim through quieter back roads.


At ten minutes to nine, the camino reveals a pilgrim's cross ahead as the path crosses a main road.


A closer look reveals what appears to be quite an ancient cross.


Just before 9:00am, the morninig seems to be promising some sunshine. Could I be lucky enough to get some nicer weather for the end of the camino?


At 9:12am I come upon the Ermita Nuestra Senora Das Neves (Our Lady of the Snows) 10.5ks done for the morning and about ten more to go.


Distracted by my own shadow as I obviously walk due west.


Around 9:30am, new pine plantations planted upon country that looks as though it has been used as such for some time.


A few minutes later, the mist off the sea rises to reveal at last that I am reaching the coast.


Around 10:00am the terrain becomes a little barren and open. It seems there were pine forests about this area which, having been cleared, lays fairly fallow.


At 10:10am - and what I thought was Finisterre on the horizon, and seemingly so close. I was tempted (briefly) to think of making that my destination today. But, my shin was sore and there was no need to rush. I had time to stay at one more spot and take a shorter walk in the morning. Besides, the camino the next morning led me across and over the far stretch of land to Finesterre futher around.


About 5 minutes on I take a brief detour off the camino for about 100 meters to see an ancient pilrgim's cross. Whether the camino onced passed by the cross, or that it was always just off the camino, was not explained.


At 10:22am, my final destination for the day comes into view.


About 10:30am, the camino begins to take a fairly abrupt direction downwards, placing some strain on my sore shin.


Descending into what I assume is Caminos Chans, about half a kilometer from Cee. There looks to be a fair amount of settlement along the coast up ahead.


The outskirts of Cee - the town cemetery, with the reminder of the recent feast of All Souls two days before - flowers and wreaths on the graves of loved ones.


At 10:49am I walk through the old part of Cee. A quaint enough little town in this part, but not a yellow arrow in sight!


After losing the arrows upon entering Cee, and giving up on finding the albergue, I stumbled upon the Parish Church in the heart of what was actually quite a bustling commercial centre. I had decided that Cee didn't offer me the quiet reflective sea side atmosphere I was looking for on my last stay before Finisterre. A visit to the Church, then I would move on toward Corcubion - once I got some directions out of town from locals.


A very well kept and attractive Church inside as well as outside - a nice spot to rest for a moment in prayer.


At the back of the Church, a rather novel collection box!


11:14am The sign welcoming me to Corcubion - I was glad that it was only a bit more of a stroll on from Cee about 2 ks. The sun was warm, and I entertained the idea of resting on the sand somewhere up ahead to enjoy it.


The main street along the beachfront of this attractive little town. Continuing along and around to the left, I stopped for refreshments. My shin was still sore, but not quite as painful as yesterday.


Having stopped for a beer and to ask some directions to find accommodation, I pass by the rear of the Church, San Marcos. The barman, a friendly bloke recommended a hostel down on the beach front which he assured me would be cheaper. It possibly was, but it wasn't the very reasonable price of the many albergues over the last part of the camino to Santiago.



The view from the hostel window, just after 1:00pm when I'd finally settled on some accommodation for the night. The albergue was not well advertised in Cee, and as I was now on the sea, I decided to look for something relaxing. I enjoyed a nice pre dinner drink and a reasonable meal at this spot. This was no longer the real camino accommodation any more, but I was tired and looking to relax. My shin was still sore, but nothing like the pain of yesterday.


Looking from above Corcubion back towards Cee (the two places were virtually joined.)
Though feeling a bit tired, just before 5:00pm I decided to go for a walk to check out the sights of the town, seeing as the afternoon was so pleasant. Corcubion was a nice little town, and although not as big as Cee where there was an albergue, it had more of the seaside village feel about it.


Not sure of where the arrows were leading to, I decided to do a reconnoiter in the afternoon to make sure I'd find my way in the morning. Sure enough, despite locals telling me to just follow the road out of town, I discovered a back track out of the village. More confident of tomorrow's exit, I could now go to the pub for a couple of beers!


The historical little Church of San Marcos.


6:00pm An Estrella beer (Galician beer) and the red purse from Florence which has travelled the whole camino one and a half times! The purse held the kitty for accommodation, food and drinks across the camino, and in my case throughout a journey which commenced at the end of May. I was tempted to souvenir the glass, as it was an edition that had been produced for this year, 2010 - a Holy Year for the Camino.