About 10:15am - the camino diverts to the left.


Passing through Ventosa or Lombao, I think the two ran more or less into one another, and there was no signs indicating either. I was lucky not to miss an arrow about this time, but a friendly garbage truck driver pointed out my oversite - his truck had blocked my view of the arrow actually.


The ruins of what appeared to have been an interesting building.


Castelo, which didn't exist on my list, but which was adjacent to Aguapasada, where there was supposedly a medieval bridge - which I failed to see.


Between Aguapesada and Castineiro Do Lobo.


Susavila Do Carballo, about 2hrs and 40 minutes gone, and with 14ks done and about 6 or 7 more to go.


Typical of the country homes and settings along this route this morning.


Approaching Reino, about 11:35am.


Passing through Reino.


About 11:45am, approaching Burgueiros.


Burgueiros, with 16ks done.


With 17ks done and about 5 or 6 to go I enter Pontemaceira at 11:55am. The walk has been good, but I have kept up a fairly keen pace. I would have been interested in staying here, but there was little on offer at this time of the day. So I moved on.


And behold, the magnificent XIV century bridge over el rio Tambre awaits my crossing.


This structure has borne the weight of many a pilgrim and more...and beckons me to cross over.


Looking from the bridge across to the right, a lovely sight. How beautiful this village must be on a warm sunny day.


As I complete my crossing of the beautiful bridge, I look back one more time, then turn left to leave the village behind.


An impressive pilgrim's cross as I leave the village just on noon, with a half hour to go.


With under half an hour to go, I cross under a sturdy stone bridge as I follow the stream for a way. Soon I ring Pete Sherman as I head up onto the road and into the settlement of Barca just 10 minutes on.


At about 12:30pm, having reached the edge of Negreira, I decide not to take the road to the right to the Hotel Tamara which was recommended, but to continue towards the centre of town and check out La Mezquita. This option proved best, as this hostel was right in the middle of town.


An impressive gateway to an impressive old home on the edge of town.


An imposing statue dedicated to pilgrims in the main street as I walk towards the centre of town.


Sitting having a beer at 12:45pm, I was distracted by a smoker on the next table. Terry is the name of a Spanish brandy, and also the name of my brother who died just over two years previously from lung cancer - he was a heavy smoker. I had a second beer for Terry.


The centre of Negreira, a bustling little town, and on the corner, the hostel "La Mezquita" where I stayed - very friendly.


An intriguing sculpture on the edge of town. At first glance it seems to be a child pick-pocketing a pilgrim. But on closer examination it is not a pilgrim as such, but what appears to be a man leaving home, with the child trying to hold him back. His lower legs are actually tree trunks, symbolising perhaps his bond with his ancestral land. The globe of the earth above perhaps indicates migration from this land to other parts...


...from the other side.


The enchanting old entrance to the town - which would be the point of my departure the following morning.


Beyond the edge of the town - Negreira is certainly set in lovely countryside.


The outskirts of town, along the river side. I had checked out the arrows for the morning - the departure would be straightforward enough.

Day 46 NEGREIRA TO OLVEIROA

Wednesday 3rd of November (33ks - 5hrs 52 mins)
Left about 7:00am and arrived at 12:52pm. Slow enough going after about halfway as I was struck with a fairly painful bout of tendinitis in the right shin again. The walk started off with a couple of climbs but evened out, and for the first hour was quite pleasant, though a lot of fog which persisted throughout the walk. The last three hours or more were back roads, some asphalt and some not, and for a while, a fairly major back road. Because of the fog I probably was not able to appreciate the walk. It became a little tedious at times, and the shin made going uncomfortable. There is very little in this village besides this hostel (very good, though the room is not cheap.)I thought I would fore go the albergue once again as it was very basic and cold. I will make good use of these facilities to rest the leg and catch up on emails in the open area outside the rooms which is very warm and comfortable and has a good computer.


The pilgrim's cross at Zas, less than two kilometers into the morning's walk. It was a very dark beginning to the walk due to heavy fog, and the camino seemed to wind back on itself with no clear direction, however, I was soon out into open country.


About half an hour into the walk, the sky began to clear a little with the approaching morning sun.


Half an hour into the walk, I was confronted with a landscape that made me think of Van Gogh's "Cypresses", with a haunting purple glow all around me, and a number of the same trees accompanying my progress.


As I made my way along, there was an eeriness to this morning's slow and meager sunrise which made me wonder what sort of weather awaited me on this walk today.


Approaching Rapote, about 5ks into the morning walk.


Around 8:00am the camino began to follow a very well maintained pathway which made me wonder if the whole walk from this point was going to become almost touristy. However, that soon changed.


The village Church of A Pena which I reached at about 8:30am after around 8ks of walking. The fog had made the going a little slower, as with that and the lack of morning light, it had been harder to see arrows at the beginning.


8:32am - the pilgrim's cross around Piaxe/Portocamino. The signs didn't tally with the information sheet I had, which had Piaxe coming before A Pena. But the sign indicating A Pena certainly came before Piaxe along the camino.


The countryside takes on a distinct Australian feel with gum trees through the morning mist - reminds me of down around Glenfyn at home.


At 9:16am I enter the village of Vilaserio, with about two and a quarter hours under my belt, and about 12ks done. This being the case, I'm walking a bit slower than normal.


As I passed through the village, I thought of Javier with whom I'd shared lunch in Outeiro, the day before Santiago. He had told me how he and his family had gone back to the west of Galicia and refurbished an old house in which they were now living. It seems a number of people have done the same our among these villages.


A lovely vegie garden on the outskirts of the village before I take to the open road again.


9:31am, and just about at this point I experienced the most excruciating pain in my right shin, like a three inch nail being driven into it. Luckily it passed after a few moments, and I thought it might only be fleeting, but it was to return again throughout the rest of the journey this day, and tomorrow.


9:37am Cornado?


9:44am where?


10:04am where?


10:22am approaching a river (?)


10:26am, I reach Maronas with 19ks under my belt, and a very sore shin. I still have about 15ks to go, and the weather, though not wet, is a bit dismal at this stage.


10:37am, (?) - a lovely pilgrim's cross.


About 10:40am, the road I was on came out onto this main thoroughfare at (?), where up ahead I stopped very briefly to grab some water.


With 19ks behind me I reach the village of (?). I still have around 14ks more, and am feeling each kilometer this morning because of my shin.


On the outskirts of the village I pass another group of young pilgrims on their way to Santiago. I had met another group before i reached the village. Obviously there were arrangements for their gear, as none were carrying anything. The earlier group had said they were going to see the Pope in Santiago.


Beyond the village, again a couple of walkers pass me going the opposite direction - definitely not pilgrims, just local farmers.


11:38am, the countryside is beautiful, and I keep telling myself how much more beautiful it would be if the weather was kinder. At least there was no rain, just mist and a grey sky.


11:45am, with seven ks to go, Lago comes into view.


A stand off in the main street!


At about 12:10pm I began to expect some rough enough country up ahead as the landscape began to change.


But the land became gentler again.


What I think was Corzon, with about 3ks to go. A cemetery with the remains of an old church.


The last few kilometers were promising to be easy. The weather, though no rain, was a bit disappointing - this could have been a spectacular walk in parts on a sunny day.


Ponteolveira, a small settlement just over the river was ahead. I knew I had only about two kilometers to go, but i had completed over thirty, and my shin was very sore!


At about 12:50pm I reach the village of Olveiroa. I came upon another couple of pilgrims just entering the village too, but they were going on. I don't know where they had stayed the night before, but they certainly didn't look as though they had walked far this day. I was glad to get here - this seemed a long walk today, and took some focusing mentally at times because of the pain in my shin. Unfortunate really, as the walk was actually a pleasant one as far as scenery went.


The hostel where I stayed. Quite a beautifully restored old village house, with a bar and restaurant. One of the nicest places I stayed on the camino. When I arrived, I was actually suffering from quite acute tendinitis, so I lay low for the afternoon and rested. Although the shin was quite sore, I reasoned that it could only get better, and besides, I only had two days left.


About twenty minutes past six, an early evening walk to see what Olveiroa has to offer. Up ahead is a bar with the albergue beside it. I was glad I didn't stay at the albergue. Not much more on offer in this little town!


Stefan, Monique and a nice fellow from Japan whose name I couldn't quite get. I spent a while with them, but Stefan and Monique were too over the top for me, so I bought them a bottle of red and left them to it. Besides, my hostel was much warmer and with a restaurant. So I returned there to enjoy a tapa and wine, and have an early night.